How do winterize a boat

Not content with just getting cozy with your interior, moisture likes to do other nasty things, like corrode your on-board electronics and electrical system. If your wiring is of the non-marinized variety, it's especially prone to corrosion that can cause shorts, blown fuses and a big migraine—with a large service bill to match. Remove any electronics that you can, and let them winter in a kinder environment.

Then, spray all exposed electrical connections with a moisture-displacing lubricant. If your boat has a removable head, clean and dry it before you store it. Built-in units, including sinks and showers, should be drained and pumped with antifreeze.

When choosing a boat cover, make sure the cover protects the waterline. Polytarp covers are relatively inexpensive but, as with any cover, they should be used with a frame to distribute the weight of snow evenly and away from the weak areas of the boat. You can make your own frame from 2 x 4s or 2 x 2s or PVC pipe. There are also kits that allow you to make a reusable frame from aluminum tubing using special clamps that attach the tubes at any angle.

Strapping along the ridge of the frame can be used in lieu of 2x2's or 2x4's. The strapping is thin enough to flex which makes a nice smooth arch to shape the shrink wrap. This is better for deflecting water, snow, and and ice. In heavier snow areas, you may want to use two layers of strapping for extra support as it's often knotty and weak.

Use screws as it's much easier to take the frame apart and reuse. Polyvinyl covers are often used for maximum water repellency and resistance to mildew and stains.

Be sure the cover is securely tied down or taped so wind won't get underneath the cover, blowing in snow or shredding the cover itself. Shrink wrap is another alternative to cover your boat, and when installed correctly, won't be suspect to heavy snows or falling objects that otherwise could dislodge a tarp. Winter's biggest dangers to engines are freezing, corrosion, and fuel degradation. Pull the engine cover and check for such problems as frayed or loose wires, connections and clamps.

Check the condition of all hoses and replace those that are mushy or that show cracks. Check the condition of the belts and adjust the tension if necessary.

Touch up any paint nicks to prevent corrosion. Run the engine up to temperature and change the oil and filter. Flush the engine with fresh water. Some outboards have an attachment for a garden hose to make the job easier.

Otherwise, use "earmuffs" to reverse flush outboards and sterndrives. Idle the engine when flushing, making sure it doesn't overheat, until the water flushes clean. Clean all outboard telltales with a piece of wire, and store the engine in a vertical position to make sure the water drains completely.

Here are some measures to consider:. Keep the boat ventilated. Ventilation can be active or passive. Active ventilation includes cowl ventilators, clamshell ventilators and louvered ventilators.

If you plan on shrink wrapping your boat, passive shrink wrap ventilators are available for these installations as well. Consider adding an engine room or other low-temperature heater. In addition to ventilators, if you have a power source, you can install an engine room heater, Golden Rod Dehumidifier or Turbo Dryer.

Reduce humidity with moisture absorbing crystals. This is a proven way to reduce cabin humidity. Special crystals are available from Star brite, Mary Kate and other manufacturers. Treat the cabin with chlorine dioxide technology. Wet stored boats on the other hand in a worst case scenario can sink and are if made of fiberglass susceptible to osmotic blistering. If you plan on keeping your boat in the water, here are some suggestions:. Inspect your dock lines. Wind, waves and surge put a constant strain on dock lines.

Prepare for winter storms by replacing dock lines if worn and add chafing gear if necessary. Consider installation of a de-icer. For a more detailed discussion of wet vs. As northern temperatures dip, it is obvious that Jack Frost has begun his trek south.

Many northern boaters have already begun to protect their boats against a possible deep freeze. If you happen to keep your boat in a more temperate zone, remember that an ounce of protection is worth a pound of cure. Unfortunately, our services and products are not available at your location. Skip to cookie disclosure dialog Skip to content Skip to navigation menu. Here comes the winter! Frames are temporary structures you can assemble and put on top of your boat, underneath the cover.

They are essential because they keep the amount of snow, pooling water and debris on top of your boat to a minimum. Any snow, water or debris that does manage to accumulate on your boat cover is evenly distributed by the support, decreasing the chance of damage to your boat due to unwelcome weight. Inevitably, oil in your boat can get water and other contaminants in it over time.

The composition of oil can change over time, becoming more acidic. When it sits for an extended period — like over the winter — the water and contaminants sit in the engine, which can cause expensive damage.

Changing the oil and oil filter right before you store your boat for the winter can save you from an expensive surprise when you uncover the boat next season. The oil change is also a great time to check for any oil leaks.

Over time, barnacles, dirt and other water scum are bound to accumulate on the bottom of your boat. Before you store it for the season, dedicate time to scraping and sanding it all off. Follow the scraping and sanding with a thorough pressure wash. In the future, you can decrease the amount of scraping, sanding and scrubbing by applying a wax at the beginning of the season.

If you discover something minor, you may be able to fix it yourself with a filler or rubber mallet. If you discover something serious, have a professional look at it. Any cracks or blisters can become a nightmare with cold temperatures over the winter. Stabilizing fuel as a step to prep your boat for winter ideally begins before your last day on the water.

Your best-case scenario is to empty the fuel tank, so absolutely nothing is in it. There are a variety of stabilizers available — your manufacturer may recommend one. Regardless of which you choose, add it when you still have a few boating days left, so it has time to completely and thoroughly circulate throughout the fuel system.

Then, top off your tank to 95 percent full. With the fuel tank this full, there is less room for moisture to accumulate. Treat it with fuel stabilizer again, and let the engine run for a bit to circulate. Now your fuel is prepped and ready for winter. While a strong boat cover and frame are perfect for protecting it from the elements, they can also be a trap for moisture. Making sure your boat cover has a vent — many are available that connect right to the frame and cover — is a great step to reducing moisture.

But, to provide the ultimate protection for your interior, consider coating the interior of your boat with a mildew spray before applying the boat cover and storing it for the winter. This step can help save you from a major cleaning project in the spring. In addition to causing mildew, moisture can corrode your electronics, causing shorts and blown fuses — two things that can be expensive to repair. Regardless of what type of engine you have, draining and flushing the system with antifreeze is essential.